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LOG ENTRY

DATE: June 18, 2003
LOCATION: 38° 31’N, 028° 37’W
WIND SPEED: N/A
HEADING: Shoreside, Horta, Faial, the Azores

Arrived in Horta almost exactly 2 weeks after leaving, at 1700 local time, June 17. Very cloudy day, and we didn't see the island of Faial until we were about 10 miles off—very frustrating, especially since we could see it on the radar! But, worth the wait. Very interesting island to look at from the sea... obviously volcanic, with large cliffs and bluffs overlooking the ocean. All the houses are white with terracotta roofing, and the land is mostly agricultural—much of it divided by thick hedgerows. Very pretty.

Our usual contingent of dolphins kept us company on the way in, then were replaced - just off the island—by a pod of pilot whales. Great to see! Sailed around the Monta da Guia and into the harbor with the famous seawall. Just like the pictures—boat names painted on every conceivable surface, many displaying some good artistic talent.

Cleared customs and got a choice berth directly alongside the seawall, which means we don't have to climb over other boats to get ashore. Very nice to be ashore, and not really very wobbly, suprisingly.

First night ashore went as one would imagine. First, we drank the bottle of wine from Charlie that was designated for the 30the meridian—very fine! Next came the bottle of champagne from Seb and the boys. Good too! Next stop: the Sport Cafe, where we - and every other sailor in town, helped ourselves to copious quantities of beer and rum. Dinner at a resturant where you're served a very hot stone, and then a mixed grill of fish, squid, beef, pork, chicken, which one cooks on the stone as one wants, with sauces to dip the food in. Delicious. Also delicious: the "expensive" bottle of wine we selected from the winelist, for $11.

Moved rather tenderly the next morning, and did a few chores. Took a tour of the island but, unfortunately, our drive spoke no english! Jack's doing, but he managed to get some $ knocked off the price as a result. The island itself is very beautiful, and we basically circumnavigated it, other than a trip to the top of the volcano, which features (we are told, as it was totally in the clouds with zero visibility when we arrived) a huge caldera. Will go back up to visit before I leave.

Dinner last night at a new spot—good local fish, and then back (groan) to the Sport cafe til closing time: 0200. Jack backtracked to a disco with some other intrepid sailors, while Tom, Mike and I headed to the boat.

Lost Jack today, as he flew to Sao Miguel to spend a day exploring that island, before returning home on Friday. We'll miss him—his unfailing sense of humor, his cooking, and his willingness to pitch in for all tasks made him a perfect boatmate and companion. Poor guy, he never did catch his fish...

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