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LOG ENTRY DATE: July 7, 2003 Back on the road again... although I have thoroughly enjoyed Horta, it was definitely time to blow town, having seen most of the sights, and having put Katie on a plane on Friday (the 4th). To celebrate our departure we had one last night at the Sport Cafe, and came back to the boat for one last beer... at which point my laptop decided it should join in the celebration. In fact, it managed to guzzle one-quarter of a Sagres (Portugese beer) through it's keyboard before I could stop it. End result—a laptop that still (thankfully!) functions, but has a hangover in terms of the the way the keys operate. Made the overnight passage from Horta to Ponta Delgada (150 miles) last night... beautiful sailing night! Close reach in 12 -14 knots of wind, making 6 - 7 knots in virtually no sea, with clear skies. Saw only one boat on the way. Was great to be back at sea again—forgot how different the rhythms between being on shore and being offshore are. Tom had the early morning watch and Sao Miguel (the eastern most Azorean island) came into sight more than 30 miles away. We were visited by dolphins most of the way, a few pilot whales, and then by whale watchers as we approached the island. It's a pretty island, with two volcanic mountains on either end. We're getting used to this volcano business, having seen them on every island. Most notable, though, was PIco, the main peak of which Katie and I climbed on July 3. It was a perfect day—clouds stayed to the east of the mountain, and we got an early start. The climb was a honest one: 2.5 hours of steep uphill, all the way. At the top, one crests what looks like a final ridge, but is actually the jagged, sharp edge of a large caldeira. Offset to one side of the caldeira is the final cone of the volcano—about 150' high—representing the top of the mountain. We scrambled up that (scramble being the operative word, as it is quite steep, with lots of loose volacanic rock underfoot... the same stuff you find in your gas barbeque!), and had fine views to every direction. We also had a good view of the island iteself, which—as you look closely at it—is studded with many tiny volcano cones. Apparently, the main peak (at 7000') had a lot of offspring around the island. Katie's last night was fun: we managed to find a fine resturant that was recommended to us by Duncan Sweet, the owner of Mid Atlantic Yacht Services, in Horta. It was in the small town of Cedros, located on a back road, and tucked into the side of a hill. It's owner, Nick Stump, is Swiss, with a large talent for cooking beef. We had marvelous steaks, and were joined by Duncan and his wife, who happened to be there as well. Great boat-type conversation (for me.... maybe not so much for Katie and Ruth, Duncan's wife), as well as early birthday presents. Duncan was also most appreciative of the goodies (Reese's Cups and Triscuits) I asked Katie to bring him, as he is a native of Portsmouth, NH, and cannot find either of those items in the Azores. Have settled now into the relative luxury of an actual dock at the Ponta Delgada Marina. So, instead of climbing up a seawall, we can simply hop off onto our own finger dock. This is a relief for me, as I sustained multiple injuries (to body and self-respect) when, at Horta, I climbed down a couple of rungs on the seawall ladder at low tide, and prepared to make the final jump to Chase's deck. Only problem was that as I moved down the ladder, the top end of it had, unbeknownst to me, slipped up inside my shorts (one would think that anything slipping up inside one's shorts would be noticed, but apparently this is not so), and stopped me in mid-lunge. The result was that my shorts ripped, and I went straight down to the very edge of the boat, being stopped there by the rather unforgiving outboard genoa track. I managed to not go swimming, though my laptop—which was displaying it's idependence even then—did try to make the plunge. Again, fortunately, I was able to save it from it's own rash behavior. The scars to mind and body are healing, though the worst of it is that the entire incident was witnessed by several French sailors on the boat aft of us... once again, zose Frenchmen zey have taken too much satizfaction in seeing an American in an awkward situation! Tonight I will begin penning a note to my Congressperson encouraging him to make into law the changing of names like French Toast and French Fries, and will begin plotting my revenge on those Frenchmen whose attitudes imply that they own the sea! Ponta Delgado is a relatively large city—Horta times 2, at least. But, it's pretty vibrant and fun... lots of things to do, especially when every third door opens up to a cafe or bar. We will settle here for a week or so, waiting for Ted and Sue to arrive on Wednesday (July 9), and to take the required time needed to properly plan for my birthday celebration on the 8th. |
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